Stop Fighting It 🌊

In Blog, Hustle Podcast by Eric ByrnesLeave a Comment

When I was a kid I used to go down to my Aunt Janie & Uncle Chris’s house in San Diego… For years Uncle Chris never missed a surf session so naturally he would drag me out there with him and taught me how to surf. 

We would go to a spot called Beacons in Encinitas and as far as Uncle Chris was concerned, the bigger the better…

One Christmas, I remember Uncle Chris driving his VW Bus along the coastline and getting his first look at the waves. He didn’t say anything but he didn’t have to because the expression on his face said it all as he nudged me over in the passenger seat several times… 

At the time, I was about 12 years old and was still a very inexperienced surfer. Not exactly sure how big the waves were that day but they were big enough to get an everyday local STOKED and have me scared to death…

We fired on our wetsuits and I then followed Uncle Chris into the lineup out beyond the break. Uncle Chris was a master navigator of rough waters; otherwise I would have never even come close to making it out….

The one thing I did have as a kid was a big set of balls and although I may have been overmatched, I wouldn’t back down to anything, including waves at least 3 times my size.

When the first set rolled in Uncle Chris started screaming…

“Paddle, paddle, paddle!!!!!” 

I felt the wave jack up beneath me and it now felt like I was on the roof of a 2 story building when I felt the board stabilize and then popped to my feet…

I made the drop, naturally went to the right and to this day it might still stand as the best wave I’ve surfed in my life… 

Uncle Chris still talks about it. 👊

As I basked in the glory of the most incredible euphoric high a 12-year-old boy had ever experienced, I began paddling back out… 

This time I was without Uncle Chris’s navigation tactics and tried to get over one of the gigantic waves but didn’t make it… I was tossed several feet onto my back as the wave crashed directly on my head… 

The result was nearly tragic. 💀 

As I got tossed around in a human washing machine, I kept trying to fight my way back to the surface but the harder I fought, the worse it got. Eventually, full panic set in and I just about used up my entire oxygen supply… At this point, I decided to let go and stopped fighting. 

After a few more toss and turns I all of a sudden saw light and found myself on top of the water’s surface… 

So often in life, whenever we are surrounded by turbulent waters we spend all of our energy trying to scratch and claw our way out… The fighting spirit is commendable but it can also kill you.

When we are able to become one with the water and simply “go with the flow,” we will be able to conserve our energy and eventually find our way back to the surface, but the only way this will ever happen is when we STOP fighting it. 

-EB

 

P.S. The Let Them Play: A Triathlon Across America documentary is finally here, and it’s the perfect film for a family movie night! Proceeds will not only benefit the Let Them Play foundation, but $1 from each sale goes directly to the COVID-19 Response Fund.

Visit LetThemPlayFilm.com or click the button below to watch now! 📽🍿